Before sewing your binding in place on your quilt top, you should carefully prepare it.  Attach your walking foot if you have one, it helps to move all the layers of fabric smoothly under the needle.  

Raw edges lined up, begin with a 12″ – 18″ tale unattached to your quilt, we will get back to that a little later, sew 1/4″ away from the raw edges.

 If you have a needle down position, use it – you will stop and start a lot to adjust the quilt.

 Stop 1/4″ away from the corner, and pull your quilt out from under the needle.  Fold the fabric away and back down – I typically just pinch it until all the edges are matching.  

 like so, and continue around your quilt in the same manner, until you are almost back to where you started. … Read More »

Preparing a binding for your quilt takes a few minutes, but it’s not difficult!  Take your time learning the steps - 

Cut 2 1/2″ strips, to determine the number of strips:  add all 4 sides of your quilt together, then divide by 40.This quilt :  60+62+60+62=244″/40= 6.1 so I round up to 7  You don’t want to be short when you get around your quilt.

Next, you need to sew all your strips together to make one continuous strip.  Overlap your ends at a 90 degree angle, but leave your selvage edges hanging over the edge.

Mark a 45 degree line from corner to corner.

Now sew on the line.  

Trim your excess – 1/4″ away from the seam..

Press your seam open.

Clip the little tags from the edge.  Repeat these steps for all your strips.  (I usually do all of them at once)

Now fold … Read More »

At this point you should have your quilt basted, and your machine clean.  Here’s a look at how I use straight lines to quilt.

 For straight lines – I use my walking foot.  They all look something like this.

Be sure to put the lever over the needle clamp, that moves the teeth on the top layer with the feet on the bottom layer.

 To begin, line up your walking foot with a seam line, in the middle of the quilt.  Like basting, it’s good to start from the middle and work your way out.  I like to use the outside of the foot as my guide.

 When you reach the other edge, turn the quilt around and line up your foot with the previously sewn seam.  I don’t even clip the thread at this point, just keep sewing!  Going back and forth across … Read More »

If you sew lots (chances are you do) you need to take a few minutes to clean your machine.  With every bobbin change, (if you can take the time to stop) and in between piecing and quilting – those are my usual intervals between cleaning.

I recently mentioned needing to have my machine serviced, but decided to figure a few things out on my own! After a reading my manual and a bit of research online, I learned that my Janome should not be oiled.  Huh?  Ya, that’s what I thought!  There’s one little oil wick beneath the bobbin that needs a teeny bit (not very often), otherwise just clean it.  Check your manual for specifics for your machine!  It makes a difference.  I also switched thread, which has made a huge difference in the amount of lint generated – who knew!?

Here’s the basics … Read More »

After prepping your quilt back, you are ready to baste your layers.  
A few things you will need:

masking tapesafety pinsan hour or so of time

To begin, clear a flat surface large enough for your entire quilt back to be spread out, in this case the floor, you may have a quilt you can baste on a table top, be sure you can pull it taut on a flat surface.

Then tape your edges down, notice I don’t have my corners taped – you don’t want to pull it out of square.  Put down a couple pieces on one side then move to the other, adjusting the tape as needed.  When you feel it is nice and flat, but not stretched you can move on.

Lay your batting over the top.  Make sure you are orientating it in a way that all of your … Read More »

As promised I have a number of Basics Tutorials for general quilt-making.  Preparing a quilt back can be as simple as sewing two pieces together, or pieced until large enough for your quilt top.

As a general rule 3″ all around is sufficient for quilting at home with your machine, if you are sending it out to be quilted check with your quilter for specific requirements.

Here’s the most basic method of prepping a quilt back:

This quilt measures 60″x62″, so I folded the longer length over.  Then lay out my backing fabric beside it, it’s folded as it came off the bolt, and I double it back the width (in this case) of the quilt.

 Leaving 3″ – cut away excess fabric.  In not all circumstances will you have excess.

 Go back to the folded edge and cut along the fold so that … Read More »

Hi there!  I’m pretty sure most of us quilters have to do lists miles long, so long in fact, it gets overwhelming.  I have a fast, easy, super cute quilt that you can finish in a couple days!  Most of you could probably figure this out – but I already did all the math for you, no thinking, just cut and sew this quilt!  Show off the prints you love most :)

Hunky Bars – 60″ x 62″ – you do get the play on words, right!?

My quilt is made with six beautiful Hunky Dory prints, use the same prints or raid your stash for your favorite prints that you can’t cut into, but would love to have a quilt with!  I’ve simply numbered the fabrics so that you can decide which works best for you – be creative!

Hunky Bars Materials … Read More »

I had a couple of requests for a roman shade tutorial – I’m flattered, but not planning another window treatment anytime soon!  I thought I would instead retrace my steps, of videos and tutorials that I found in my own quest to understand roman shades.

There are lots more videos and information about roman shades on youtube – I encourage you to keep watching until you find what makes it click for you.

Martha also has a tutorial for roman shades that may be helpful.

As I mentioned before I got my hardware on etsy at I Get the Window.  The cord lock includes instructions – just make sure that you follow them, and thread it correctly.  That’s where I had a little trouble…

The wall color is Jamaican Blue by Behr, and we love the bright color!

I hope that this helps some of you wanting … Read More »

I think it is better than new!  The fabric used on most ironing boards is so cheap – flimsy, rough, and blah.  I’ve had my current ironing board for about a year, and I was happy for the first week, then the first hole appeared in the side!  I put the recovering effort on the to do list, and there it sat, until now :)  My delay has been part, lack of fabric/time, part calculating a plan.

What do you think!?  I’m pleased as punch!

Anticipating questions, I took a few pictures.  My desire with this cover is to remove it and wash it as needed.  I like to use a lot of starch, and tend to overdo it, so the original cover is sticky and stained.  (You may have noticed it in this tutorial) So I decided to make it reversible. … Read More »

While a lot of quilts can be made without using an accurate 1/4″ seam, if you are following a pattern, best results come with accurate seams.  Today I’m sharing a good method for finding accuracy for you and your machine!

My best example of a inaccurate 1/4″ seam is this block -

I love this block, but that tiny white strip was not in my original plans.  I did all the math, worked out all the details for a perfect 12 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ block, just before adding the last row – I measured.  Thank goodness!  I then calculated the needed piece, added it, and vowed to get my 1/4″ seam accurate!

Here’s what I’ve learned, and how you can achieve an accurate 1/4″ seam.

These are the sewing machine feet I’m using, a 1/4″ foot, and a standard foot with a wide … Read More »

All the patterns say “Square Your Fabric” but what does it mean!? Often when it has been cut in a shop, it comes to you less than straight, and before you can easily use your rotary cutter you need to get a straight edge to work with!

This piece had some extra funky folds in it, looked like they had been on the bolt that way too – makes it a great example!1. Press your fabric. I like to use lots of spray starch, any old spray starch I can find on sale.2. Fold your fabric, selvage to selvage. In the picture above there is a bubble in the fold at the bottom. 3. Adjust your selvage edges until the fold lays flat. Use your fingers to scoot them one way or the other until it is … Read More »

In our discussion last week tutorials about some of the basics were suggested. And after yesterday’s post this seemed like the perfect place to start! I don’t remember learning this, I’m guessing it was learned as girl and has been ingrained since. (I learned to sew garments at 10)

On the wrong side of fabric, place the long end of your seam ripper under a stitch.Cut the thread on every 2nd or 3rd stitch, on one side only.Turn over and gently tug on the thread with your fingers, not the seam ripper.All of your stitches should release, if not turn over and find the problem child, and cut. Continue on and clean up the little bits of thread.Clean seam, with no tugging on your fabrics!Same goes for a zig-zag stitch too. Run your seam ripper … Read More »